Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby Caligula on Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:15 am

This may seem odd, though ive had very good results with using a leaf blower to finish drying the car. Its great for getting all the water out of places like the mirrors and taillights. Just my .02
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:26 am

^^ That's a very good tip... compressed air works the best, but a leaf blower, or even a vacuum that can be switched to blow will be better than just leaving the water to sit in all jambs and crevices on the car body
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Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ///Mthrillah on Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:51 pm

I've been thinking about getting a Porter 7424 for a while now and was wondering if you could lend some advice on where to get a decent deal on one. I usually go to Autogeek.net for detailing products but don't know of any other reputable detailing sites. Any suggestions ?

Nice writeup by the way, lots of good info in there. :thumbsup
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ali on Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:47 am

My friend bought a 450 dollar orbital one. It rotates on an axis and then the actual pad rotates on its own axis. Its ballin. He spent 8hrs doing his ENTIRE integra Type R. Looked gorgeous afterward! I need to get my car done soon. It hasn't been polished in forever.

I didn't even think about that compressed air thing to dry the car. I have a compressor at home. Next time I wash my car I will try that.

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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:19 am

///Mthrillah wrote:I've been thinking about getting a Porter 7424 for a while now and was wondering if you could lend some advice on where to get a decent deal on one. I usually go to Autogeek.net for detailing products but don't know of any other reputable detailing sites. Any suggestions ?

Nice writeup by the way, lots of good info in there. :thumbsup


I would recommend Meguiar's new orbital instead of the PC 7424... I had the PC, sold it to buy the new Flex dual action orbital, and just a day ago sold the Flex and will be getting Meguiar's G110. They're both about the same price range but Meg's G110 has a bit more torque due to a stronger motor (4.2amp vs. 3.5, I think, something like that), thus why I'm getting the G110 and not the PC again...

The Flex orbital is your other option... The Flex is a great tool for someone not doing a lot of detailing or someone who isn't skilled with the rotary polisher.. Flex is much better than either Meg's G110 or PC 7424 in that it is a dual action machine... it's a random orbital but with forced rotation... so while it's safe on the paint and still pretty "idiot proof", as are PC and G110, it does behave like a rotary in the the forced rotation forces the user to actually control the movement of the machine rather than just press to the paint and go (like you do with G110 and PC)... The only reason I sold the Flex is because it just didn't fit into my detailing routine... I use the rotary 99% of the time and used the PC before to finish down on some really picky paints... with the Flex, it's a great middle ground between rotary and random orbital, because it corrects much quicker than the PC and leaves a good finish... this is why it's good for someone who needs only 1 machine and will only use that... I used the rotary 99% of the time and kept the Flex as a backup in case I can't finish down without holograms on some paints... but since the G110 and/or PC will do a good job at that, I figured it's better to have one of those again than to have a $280 machine sitting around doing pretty much nothing...

You can buy the G110 here... http://autodetailingsolutions.com/megui ... lisher.htm (the first package is great since it has the pad, m/f towel, good backing plate and the G110... just order a few polishes, etc. and you got yourself a starter package)

Flex can be bought here... http://www.detailedimage.com/Flex-M26/XC-3401-VRG-P128/ (it's about $280 everywhere... detailedimage.com is a great site run by cool guys who send the stuff really fast and have great customer service, which is why I advertise for them a lot and order almost all my stuff from there)

detailedimage.com, autogeek.net, autodetailingsolutions.com are 3 sites from which I order the most, if not all of my supplies... If you want further advice on placing an order for a good starter package, PM me or e-mail @ ivan@lustrdetail.com and we can figure out what exactly you want/need.

ali wrote:My friend bought a 450 dollar orbital one. It rotates on an axis and then the actual pad rotates on its own axis. Its ballin. He spent 8hrs doing his ENTIRE integra Type R. Looked gorgeous afterward! I need to get my car done soon. It hasn't been polished in forever.

I didn't even think about that compressed air thing to dry the car. I have a compressor at home. Next time I wash my car I will try that.

-Ali


I've very curious about the $450 orbital... which manufacturer/model is that? I'm asking since the most expensive orbital now is the Flex XC 3401 VRG I linked to above...
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ali on Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:19 am

I can't remember the name. But I will ask him later. Their are youtube videos of the process/product. Maybe I'll be able to provide you with a link.

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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:48 am

ali wrote:I can't remember the name. But I will ask him later. Their are youtube videos of the process/product. Maybe I'll be able to provide you with a link.

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Yea just get whatever you can... I'd really like to know what polisher that is.
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ali on Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:24 am

k found out today. He actually had spent 450 total. Including buffer, accessories and shipping. here is the unit...

http://www.autogeek.net/xmtpocainswr.html

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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:41 am

ali wrote:k found out today. He actually had spent 450 total. Including buffer, accessories and shipping. here is the unit...

http://www.autogeek.net/xmtpocainswr.html

-Ali


Yea that makes more sense... the polisher itself is $100-150 new on various sites. Accessories do add up BIG TIME haha... $40 for this polish, $50 for some pads, another $40 for some mf towels, and you're easily $500 in the hole
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ali on Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:34 pm

his kit was a very good deal. and it worked AMAZING. I am very jealous of his car. My sentra is an 04 and has HORRIBLE paint. It needs some TLC fer sure.

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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ///Mthrillah on Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:22 pm

lecchilo wrote:I would recommend Meguiar's new orbital instead of the PC 7424... I had the PC, sold it to buy the new Flex dual action orbital, and just a day ago sold the Flex and will be getting Meguiar's G110. They're both about the same price range but Meg's G110 has a bit more torque due to a stronger motor (4.2amp vs. 3.5, I think, something like that), thus why I'm getting the G110 and not the PC again...

The Flex orbital is your other option... The Flex is a great tool for someone not doing a lot of detailing or someone who isn't skilled with the rotary polisher.. Flex is much better than either Meg's G110 or PC 7424 in that it is a dual action machine... it's a random orbital but with forced rotation... so while it's safe on the paint and still pretty "idiot proof", as are PC and G110, it does behave like a rotary in the the forced rotation forces the user to actually control the movement of the machine rather than just press to the paint and go (like you do with G110 and PC)... The only reason I sold the Flex is because it just didn't fit into my detailing routine... I use the rotary 99% of the time and used the PC before to finish down on some really picky paints... with the Flex, it's a great middle ground between rotary and random orbital, because it corrects much quicker than the PC and leaves a good finish... this is why it's good for someone who needs only 1 machine and will only use that... I used the rotary 99% of the time and kept the Flex as a backup in case I can't finish down without holograms on some paints... but since the G110 and/or PC will do a good job at that, I figured it's better to have one of those again than to have a $280 machine sitting around doing pretty much nothing...

You can buy the G110 here... http://autodetailingsolutions.com/megui ... lisher.htm (the first package is great since it has the pad, m/f towel, good backing plate and the G110... just order a few polishes, etc. and you got yourself a starter package)

Flex can be bought here... http://www.detailedimage.com/Flex-M26/XC-3401-VRG-P128/ (it's about $280 everywhere... detailedimage.com is a great site run by cool guys who send the stuff really fast and have great customer service, which is why I advertise for them a lot and order almost all my stuff from there)

detailedimage.com, autogeek.net, autodetailingsolutions.com are 3 sites from which I order the most, if not all of my supplies... If you want further advice on placing an order for a good starter package, PM me or e-mail @ ivan@lustrdetail.com and we can figure out what exactly you want/need.



:D Thanks for the run down. As much as I wanted to get the Flex I found a new pc 7424 with a 6" backing plate on craigslist for $90 this morning and couldn't pass it up. So I spent the extra $200 I saved by going with the pc on pads, polishes, sealer, wax, mf towels. Here's what I picked up...

CCS XL 6.5" pad kit
http://www.autogeek.net/pc-foam-pad-kit.html

Menzerna PO85RD
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-final- ... o85rd.html

Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-super- ... olish.html

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html

P21S 100% carnauba wax
http://www.autogeek.net/p21s-100--carnauba-wax.html

Cobra edgeless MF towles
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-edgeless- ... 6pack.html

Thanks again for all the help and advice. I'll be sure to post before and after pics as soon as all the stuff gets in.
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:09 am

^^ Great order man and good find on the PC.. I sold mine recently for $100 and just ordered the G110 from Meg's.

Again, your order is very thorough and you should be able to do a great job on the car. Just one thing... I don't know if you've read about KSG a lot, but MANY people find it hard to remove... it is in fact hard to remove if you do it the wrong way... once it dries, if you try wiping it with a dry m/f towel, a bunch of it stays on the paint... so to use KSG, don't read Klasse's instructions or wipe off with dry m/f towel, but do this:

1. apply VERY thin and even coat over entire vehicle...
2. let it sit for as long as you can... a day would be great, 12 hours is pretty good too... half an hour is what I recommend at least and is what I do most of the time as I'm pressed for time.. on my old 328 I would wait 12-15 hours until the next day, then apply a 2nd coat...
3. when you're ready to remove, take 2 m/f towels, and make one of them damp with a QD... then simply wipe down the car first with damp towel, then pick up that with a dry one (do this panel by panel, not entire car with damp then dry, rather half roof with damp, then dry, other half, etc..)... KSG residue comes right off (double check for missed spots of course) and you got your protection...

you can add another layer immediately (I prefer to wait at least 2-3 days, if not a week, between the layers) or wait a week or two and start layering the P21S wax on top every 4-8 weeks.

The only thing I would order in addition to all your stuff is come clay and Menzerna 106ff... 85rd is a great finishing polish but just doesn't have enough cutting ability to correct what SIP leaves behind most of the time... plus 106ff will be great for a 1-step polishing job with light swirls, whereas 85rd would make for a nice finish but wouldn't completely remove the swirls.

Feel free to ask any questions when detailing and definitely post up some before/after shots.

One more thing... get yourself a sprayer and mix 50/50 water/isopropyl alcohol 50-70%... after using a polish on a test area, check with the light how it looks, then wipe down the area with the 50/50 ipa solution and check again... many polishes will leave behind fillers/residue which will mask the defects, so you won't know what you're removing until you wipe these fillers off...
Last edited by ivopivo on Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ///Mthrillah on Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:29 pm

Good to know on the KSG. I knew that would be the longest step during the process but didn't know it could be tricky to clean up. As far as clay goes, I've been using the off the shelf mothers clay kit. What would you recommend ? I was thinking Megs red or purple but I'm not sure if the purple would be overkill. And I'll be putting an order in for the 106ff when I find the right clay.
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby ivopivo on Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:41 pm

///Mthrillah wrote:Good to know on the KSG. I knew that would be the longest step during the process but didn't know it could be tricky to clean up. As far as clay goes, I've been using the off the shelf mothers clay kit. What would you recommend ? I was thinking Megs red or purple but I'm not sure if the purple would be overkill. And I'll be putting an order in for the 106ff when I find the right clay.


First of all, I edited my post above... I didn't mean to say "then simply wipe down the car first with damp towel, then pick up that with a dry one" rather do that but panel by panel haha... if you do the whole car you'll just make a mess since what you wipe off with the damp towel will just dry back up again unless wiped off soon with a dry towel...

As for the clay, I've been detailing for over 3 years now and reached for the red maybe 2 times for some rough, dry over-spray, and never used the purple... these are just too rough and will definitely marr the paint (which isn't a bad thing when it's necessary and heavy polishing will follow, but is usually not needed). All I've needed usually is the white clay in the Smooth Surface Clay Kit.. plus that kit comes with the best m/f towel you'll ever use haha. I also use the mild, blue clay but rarely, only if the car feels like sandpaper (even then most of the time the white claybar will do the trick)

Hope that helps.

Message me if you need further help locating/ordering products... I don't sell any personally but know a few online stores with great deals now and then.
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Re: Auto Detailing Process & Techniques

Postby GvilleCayman on Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:29 pm

What's your opinion on these expensive (like $200+) waxes? Are they actually that much better or what?
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