Just your average 95 M3 build...

Want someplace to tell about all the plastic parts you broke doing your interior swap? Or what about the pics of your foot after you dropped your transmission on it? Post up the epic project threads here from all the days you've spent working on your E36.

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby Pzary3233 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:30 pm

heh, just bought some land and building a proper shop... BUT Progress still:

Found some good info on the porsche brakes:

Mostly related to the size of the master Cyl that Porsche uses.

This information I can use to help verify the information in the stoptech white papers.

This page on my site is from the whitepapers, granted the math is all wrong because I did it at 4 in the morning...


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1995 Leopard

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby Pzary3233 » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:55 pm

Now on to progress from the weekend.

Apparently I have become quite proficient at getting the dash of an e36... I had it out in a little over 30 minutes.
Work Space for the day:

Custom Tools for the three effing bolts in the front defrost vents:

1 SK 7mm sock cut off so JUST the head of the bolts fit in it. 1 chinese brand wrench heated and bent with a torch to reach the drivers side bolt.

If you have never done this task... lucky you!

No mas!

Black will look SO much better!

Also did some digging in the ETM and found that I can delete two of these connectors.
The X69 and the X6031 connectors can be deleted if I move pin #1 and pin #2 from the X6031 connector back to the X20 connector which in turn will bring the car back to OBDI wiring and I will not have to re-wire my harness.


Some things that found their way to my office:

I am going to TRY to see if I can get this to go over the radiator support and use the vette style airbox.


We'll see...

The '95 M3 shell is FORSALE!
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1995 Leopard

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby The Moofia Mob » Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:29 am

Very interesting build so far. I have seen a few with Mustang motors but this is the first corvette build I get to read. Excellent work and my hat is off to you.
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Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby Pzary3233 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:56 am

It's actually more common for the LSx motors then the 5.0 Ford motors.

It should be a good finished product, money and time dictate how fast the build goes.
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1995 Leopard

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby The Moofia Mob » Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:46 pm

Pzary3233 wrote:It's actually more common for the LSx motors then the 5.0 Ford motors.

It should be a good finished product, money and time dictate how fast the build goes.

I am eager to learn more. This is a great build as it seems more complicated versus the 5.0 transplant. But I do like the Vette motor. I was looking and reading about some people who also did this with the E34 (1989-1995) 5 Series.
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Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby Pzary3233 » Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:40 pm

Wow have a year of stuff to catch up on... Excuse the awful long post...



The collector needs to be moved back a little bit to clear the core support and the hot side plumbing.

The formed collectors SUCK!!! I am ordering a set of slip on collectors and running 2.5" hot side piping to a t4 turbo flange.

A smallish T70 .92 A/R turbo has been ordedred.

Needless to say, turbo lsx e36 m3. Somehow this swap makes this much easier then I had thought. I also noticed that you can indeed use the truck manifolds flipped forward with slight modding on the drivers side. Moddification takes 10 minutes.

So yeah, that's what I did today.




That's about all I've got at the moment...


Back to the car for a second...

ABS stuff is going away for a while...

So Thanks to Braap there is this trusty diagram:


I'm going to measure and order fittings to effectively delete the ABS for the moment.

I WILL have ABS on the car, but I'm trying to get this stupid thing done. The ABS when it comes back will be in the form of a C5 Z06 ABS unit.

Ordered the MR2 pump, gathered some steel for the tandem master Cyl mounts. Going to go through the math to figure out what's up on the master cyl sizing.

With the Tandem master Cyls I COULD possibly fit truck manifolds without issue on the passenger and drivers side..... Which would be AWESOME.

Needless to say header fabrication is still going.


Vorshlag just got some more of my money!

I broke down and was seduced by Fair's sexy headers. I've got all of the hot side piping done for the Turbo setup, but it's just not going to be in the cards at the moment.

STOKED to have a running car by the end of September.


Mike at JTR is VERY quick on shipping!

Ordered the driveshaft part around 3pm or so, and he's got it shipped out tracking number and all!

Major props to JTR for that!

**********************STUPID AUTO MERGE****************************

Got some parts in today from Speedway Motors:



51513930 30" T56/LS1 CLUTCH LINE

Selected Kit Components
Sku Description Quantity
91031846-3 36" BRAKE LINE STRAIGHT 1
6174043 AN3 TO 10mm-1.5 FITTING 1
6173642 3/8,10mm CRUSH WASHER SET/5 1
8352200063 1/8"BLEED RPR/ASSY SNGL 1
6174133 1/8"NPT TO #3 BRAKE FITTING 1

6174143 #3 TO 10mm X 1.0 MALE JAPAN



49109899 98/99 LS1 LINKAGE CAM SINGLE


UPS truck came by the shop today and delivered EKnight's Vorshlag kit and my headers!

Great packaging!



No work on my car this weekend even though I have all kinds of parts ready to make this joke drivable...


Instead conned the wife into going to Eric's and worked on his car...

Big Brown Truck came in today with the rest of my Vorshlag bits!

Steering shaft, 4 Channel ABS bracket, and the vBands and what not for the headers.


I also got all of my stainless hardware for bolting on the intake, accessories, and what not. so I should be getting close to having everything to get the motor into the car!


I also found a source for AN3 to m12-1.0 adaptors So I don't have to have 5" worth of adapters to make it all work. I should have that stuff in by the end of the week.

Got my Flange in last week from JTR, just now took it out of the package!


They also shipped their product very very quickly!



As always check out my build blog: http://www.lsxe36m3.com

To dress up the motor a bit I grabbed a large quantity of stainless fasteners to make everything look nice and pretty.

10:6mm-1.00 x 120mm (intake manifold)
6 :8mm-1.25 x 80mm (water pump)
4 :10mm-1.5 x 35mm (idler pulley/ps pump bracket)
4 :6mm-1.00 x 20mm (coolant crossover/water neck)
4 :6mm-1.00 x 15mm (fuel rail)
2 :10mm-1.5 x 50mm (tensioner pulley bracket)
2 :10mm-1.5 x 120mm (alternator)
4 :4mm-0.7 x 16 (throttle body sensors)

button cap
3 :6mm-1.00 x 30mm (throttle body)

flat washer

lock washer
6 :m8
7 :m10

I've got a good supply of all of this stuff if anyone wants a kit put together I can do that for them!


wait I was confused about what clutch you were talking about....

The Spec clutch is a stock replacement stage 1 (that is what I assume) that's good for basic bolt ons.

Got some work done today on the car...

Pulled the L33 off the shelf and put it on the stand.


Cleaned it off, and stripped it down to a long block... Going into work early in the AM to get it dressed out with the LS1 bits.

Update on the blog as well:

posting this real oem image for reference:



Made some progress on the car last night!

Brake lines are routed, need some more fittings...




Got the last of my brake fittings this afternoon via carquest

Got the heater hoses from carquest as well so we're doing good to get the motor in this weekend.

We got bored at work today and the pranks started rolling...

This is by far the best... Yard truck on top of the scrap bin pile.




Car is finally prepped for the engine.

I did however kill the throttle cable. It was so easy to twist off...

I then got the ls7 clutch installed. The trans qas very easy to maTe. Eric I have no idea why you had issues.

Shoved the motor in first with headers... no go. I didtry to install with headers but they were not going to fit... so it went in without headers.

Then busted my finger trying to wrangle them in... not real sure how those are going to go in....


Any tips on header install??


Yes now that you mention that... sounds like a very viable option... ill try that as well.

[quote=Tongboy;22751857]wow, that is a lot more effort than mine required - granted, different headers but still, they are very similar.

I don't have to remove starter or valve covers - the motor remains bolted into its final destination and they go in from the bottom with some finangling and swearing but without too much weird effort assuming all the little trim pieces were removed from the block.[/quote]

I agree that it's a lot more effort then yours... MERF!

STUPID MERGE --------------------------------------------------------------------

Good chat with Fair today about headers - going to try a few tips that he had for me.

Thanks for the quick call back Terry!

STUPID MERGE --------------------------------------------------------------------

The real run down of Saturday's work:

Started off getting the LS6 PCV system installed.


$45 bucks at my local GM dealer - came with gasket and bolts.

Opened her up and BAM! No boss to cut.


Installed: Image

I didn't have a clutch alignment tool so I made one... Kind of expensive but I don't own an LT1...


LS7 Clutch installed


Header Fitment:



The dog next door Pete decided to come by - He's awesome.


Engine bay prepped ready for the motor to go in for the last time. Everything but the throttle cable is in place - should receive another one in a few days.



Car on the lift ready for the motor:




Oh yeah notice the not actually trying to fit the headers in there... I got some grief for that this AM when I walked into the shop!

As always you can check my site: http://lsxe36m3.com/

[quote=birdman2447;22751815]I just installed mine today, it only takes a hour or so. I tried to install them from the bottom up but no luck, so this seems to be the only option. First install the driver-side, to get mine to fit i had to remove the 4 subfame bolts and with a hoist move the engine to the pass side by 2in. Then the pass side is a breeze, just pull the starter and drop in down, before you bolt it in re install the starter. Both sides seemed to require the valve covers removed. Let me know if this works for you.[/quote]

[quote=Tongboy;22751857]wow, that is a lot more effort than mine required - granted, different headers but still, they are very similar.

I don't have to remove starter or valve covers - the motor remains bolted into its final destination and they go in from the bottom with some finangling and swearing but without too much weird effort assuming all the little trim pieces were removed from the block.[/quote]

Ok So I found a VERY simple solution on the drivers side header...

Simply un-fasten the through bolt on the mount and jack up the motor 3" slide header in and let it back down. Re-bolt. This process took literally 15 minutes from beginning to end. No cussing. So Easy!

Fitment is AWESOME!!!!!

Tomorrow morning I throw in the passenger side. Pics in the morning!


Driver side header install

Aprox 15 minutes.

Tools needed.
large prying device
large punch

* Loose Motor Mount
* Place jack under oil pan sump remove pressure from mount
* Knock out bolt
* Raise Motor up 2 to 3 inches.
* Slide header in and start two header bolts.
* Re-position motor and mount.
* Slide bolt back in.
* Tighten down.

Motor at installed height:


Motor mount secured:





Fitment is REALLY good.

The only header bolt that will prove to be interesting is the furtherest one back behind the booster. However it was cake with a ratcheting 13mm wrench.



Alright passenger side header install.

Approx time 10 minutes with practice

Tools needed
* Sockets for your starter bolts
* Ratchet
* Long-ish extensions

How to get the stupid thing in?
* Jack up the car as high as possible - this header goes in from below.
* Remove starter.
* Snake header in let it hang on the spark plugs.
* Wiggle the starter back in - make sure your long bolts are already in the starter.
* Tighten starter
* Install header gasket and tighten header bolts.
* Lower car

Pictures at Lunch.

It's Lunch TIME!







Needless to say I have NO HEADER FITMENT ISSUES AND EVERYTHING IS THEY WAY IT SHOULD BE!!!! Great job Vorshlag team for taking the time to get your product right!

Talked with a local coating company they wanted to charge me $100 more for my headers then they advertise for the same service on their site...

I then talked with my Uncle-in-Law who is a gun smith/machinist. He was saying that he uses a ceramic coating that works very well on his firearms that he builds. Cerakote high Temp coating - their website states that it is actually for exhaust systems and headers. Seems like a viable option. I am going to call them today and get some more tech info on their product.

[url="http://www.nicindustries.com/high_temperature_coatings.php?phpMyAdmin=v085d1Xlej-S9bKII5j2WIDX6m5"]Creakote's Web Site[/url]

[quote=bimerok;22760988]I ran both of ours on the "top" of the frame rail and that gave enough air clearance to not have any issues even during 100+F track days.



That is what I'll be doing this evening.


Alright! It's lunch time so I'm including pictures!







Here's Fritzintn's 95 M3 with Built S50 turbo, blah, blah, blah, Faster then my LSx M3.



Lazy day at work...

Got off the phone with Cerakote

Here is some tech data and some "tests"

Exterior should be sprayed with this:

Interior of headers should be flowcoated with this:





I don't have that problem on mine...

Got some more bits in the mail!


Radiator shroud to fit the stock style radiator - will be replacing the no name brand fan with a quality flex-a-lite.

Then last night I tackled pulling out the black dash and carpet from the M3 in a Box as I lovingly call the now parts car.

Excuse the mess in my office...



It WILL run by the end of the month....

Agent you're a sissy for not doing the swap yet :-p

Found this on my friend's flikr photostream:


These are obviously kind of old....



Some more parts showed up this week...

4" intake tubing for the 85mm MAF and VDO oil temp sender for the euro cluster oil temp gauge.

Then USPS brought this in:

Saikou Michi Co Dual Catch Cans with AN6 fittings. I have an extra pair of valve covers that I am getting a bung welded into and the rear port filled.



My wiring was incorrect in two spots - the coil pack grounding and the fuel pump relay

Fighting a bad fuel pressure regulator (AND A NEW ONE AT THAT) I got the joker fired up tonight!!!

Ok so 3 days into the new month but not bad!

As required:



LOL That was my first though... It really does sound pissed off. Granted it's running with no o2 sensors and has not had any time to calibrate etc due to lack of cooling system, etc.

I'll take another tomorrow with your name written in the dust on the car - just for you. ;)

Otherwise STOKED!

I do have a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.
Symptoms are as follows:

*5psi MAX with first prime
*When Cranking I register 5 PSI
*When the return line is crimped prime is to 60psi
*With return line crimped Running fuel pressure and starting fuel pressure are right between 58-55 psi.
*Take off clamp on return line pressure quickly returns to 5 psi.
*FPR is not plumbed backwards - I originally thought that and checked it.

This FPR is brand new, should not be having problems with it like this. Has anyone else had issues or did I just get a dud?

Huge list of things to get done before the first test drive. However, it's getting there!!!! I need to figure out who's going to weld the o2 bungs on the headers as I am not comfortable welding stainless.... humm... Might just take them out for coating anyway.


Worked on the car last night.

Got the o2 Sensors installed hoping that would make the car run better - not so much. Have a miss that can't seem to find.

Installed my radiator and noticed right away that the cooling fan isn't going to fit.


Now I'm in the market for a slimmer fan....


I'm good thanks for the offer, had to weld something up as I needed to use the stock fitting and mate it to a 4AN fitting. It's all good now. Pressure tested at a hyd. shop and ready to install.

Pictures of my booger welds:



according to real oem there are a number of different Clutch master cyl and line configurations.

There are at least 4 known...

Early threaded type.
Early clip in - tried the braap modified line in my '95 master and it was a no go as well.
Braaps' clip in
Late clip in


Seems to me that when ever I do get in the car to move it or something no one is wanting to take a video... Oh well, soon enough we'll have track day footage. NASA has an HPDE in March.

last year just before Christmas 2011 I was able to drive the car for the first time. No power steering and I think the car will stay that way, it seems soo much more solid and the feedback is great. We'll see after a track day...

Between being out of town, Family, Building the wife's new Tahoe, and a bunch of other things I am finally going to be able to work on the car this coming weekend and hopefully get somewhere on the exhaust system!

I have a Summit Racing 3″ universal x pipe, Spintech Sportsman XL Muffler with dual 3″ inlets and dual 2.5″ outlets.

Other then that we’ll see what happens with the exhaust this weekend.

I am also hoping to throw in a factory core support and get the front end all put back together and properly aligned. I have new headlights and corner lights ready to throw in as well...

I also have put aside a few different cooling fans so that I can mock them up and see which ones fit the best. That should help with the engine temps, though it does not seem to get warm as it is…

I sure hope that the exhaust will get rid of the stumble I’ve been dealing with!

Next on the list is intake plumbing, I need to get that sorted out and figure out if I am going to go with a speed density or maf tune.

All in all everything seems to be coming together quite nicely and am excited to get some more work done on the car.

UPS just dropped this off:


updated the blog as well.



Spintech Exhaust is on the car, lots of butchering of the x pipe to get it all to fit, but it's in there!

Car still has a stumble that I can't figure out... It may be a wiring issue... I am going to go back through my harness to figure out what's up.

Horrible video


Camera out of focus, tailgate held it up, console in the way of Shifter thus missed 2nd gear... Car just seems to act weird

But there she is!


My shifter is a stock shifter with a funky shift lever since I never had a stock lever. MGW shifter should be here next week to take care of that issue.

Grabbed some stuff from Summit today to complete my intake system.

Spectre 85mm MAF Adapter to 4" Tube
Spectre 4" low profile elbow
Spectre 4" Coupler
Spectre 4" Intake Tube
K&N 4" Filter

As for getting together, time is so sporactic and time for working on the car is a take it now or leave it type thing I am not sure when I am going to get a chance to work on it. Hopefully I will be able to tag it this coming week if all goes well.




LOVE it, fits perfectly in the car!

Now the reverse lock out needs to be modded because it's VERY hard to get the thing into reverse now.


UPS dropped this off too:


I'm stoked!

Come to find out the OEM PS bracket is NLA from GM....


That is exactly what they do. They buy new (not reman) pumps for the OEM application and modify them to not run so hot and voila you have a turn one pump. It was more cost effective for me to buy their pump then buy a reman or new pump from the local parts store then try to figure out how in the world to modify it.

Since the stock bracket is NLA and I don't feel like wasting time trying to source a used one, I grabbed this from the sand rail guys at Alper Motorsports.



That is an MGW shifter. After logging in 150 miles today its the best shifted ever. It came with black rtv.

I have a nomex boot from ebay that I will put on there.

Here is my post yesterday from.my local forum:

Started at the shop around 7am this morning.... Shocks on the Tahoe which surprisingly only took 20 minutes! Then I went on a quest to find a stupid state inspection sticker. Good ole Scott at Mathis was the man in getting that done!

Got back to the shop and tore into a 318ti we have to grab the radiator support and nose panel.

Tore down the M3 to get rid of the aftermarket crap that I had on there.

Put the real deal stuff on and MAN the body panels ACTUALLY FIT!

Installed the Depo headlights with 6k HIDs.... Man starting to get somewhere.

Installed new o2 sensors, cleaned up wiring, and made an upper radiator hose that actually fits with my new intake ducting. Part numbers come Monday on the hoses.

After that I swapped some wheels and tires around to get a full set of tires that hold air. Come to find out Style 5 3 piece BBS wheels do NOT fit front M3 brakes. MERF! I need about a 10mm spacer to make it all happen.

After that I bled the cooling system and she stayed nice and cool even without a cooling fan. I love the BMW cooling system, it just works! I will be adding a fan soon enough. I have found a couple BMW fans that look like they might fit the bill nicely.

Took the car for a drive behind the shop... She did well in the lower RPMs or when ever you don't put your foot in it too much. Smooth and quick. When you roll into it or floor it the car breaks up and what not... I don't get it. Also at idle, it's pig rich.

So far I have replaced the following bits: Plugs Wires MAF o2 Sensors Knock Sensors

Fuel pressure is rock steady, so I'm not losing fuel...

I also notice that the car runs AMAZING when it's cold... I guess when it's in closed loop. Once it warms up then everything described above happens...

Anyone have any ideas? I want to get this sorted out before Forrest gets his hands on it.


Put yet another set of plugs and wires on the car, adjusted the gap slightly narrower.

The car runs AMAZING!!! I now need a 3.90 diff.

I will finish upturn current new harness to keep things cleaner... Then finish the obdI harness and have it up for sale.

Proper video:



Superbowl? What's that? I was in the shop instead!

Got a LOT of work done on the car this weekend. The interior is back in and I wired up the euro cluster so that I could get a functioning oil temp gauge. I also started looking around for some drift spares... I rounded up everything in a 5x120 or 5x4.75 bolt pattern to see if it would fit...

No pics of the interior everyone knows what a stock M3 interior looks like...

Euro Cluster Install:

The difference between the two clusters is small but I like it!

X16 connector - The tab by my fingers needs to be lifted, then you can pull the connector apart

Pull lightly on the wires and it will come out easily.

From there just take a small piece of Metal - I used a staple - and remove the pin and locate it in the correct position and voila re-install and the euro cluster will work!


*Pin 21 - Black and white - Fuel Consumption Signal - DME
*Pin 16 - Blank - Engine Oil Temp

If you are doing an LSx swap like me and do not care about the OBC functionality, (Though I don't think this wire actually goes to the OBC), you can take the consumption wire from the x20 - verified with an ohm meter - and use that wire to connect to your temp sensor.


Then came the wheel fitment...
Thanks to Repiv I have 10mm spacers up from which allow for the Style 5 BBS wheels on 4 corners now. 235s up front and 245s in the rear.

I then tried some C5 vette wheels with 245 front rubber and 275 rear rubber, they would be awesome if their center bore was a bit larger... Then they would fit!

Not to sweat though... I found some beat up 18" 5 Series wheels...

Rear Fitment - 275/40/18

Front fitment - 245/40/18

275 vs 245 tires...

I then got to work on the heater plumbing, easy enough... Just have to get the blower motor working now... UGH!

The car is going to be my daily driver this week... We'll see how it goes.


Also found a NASA event at MMP!

Also edited my post on the Euro Cluster install - included the wiring info.

Finally updated the blog as well:


Cluster shot from last night:



1500 rpm @ 70mph in 6th gear

Time to re-gear but I would imagine the gas mileage is AWESOME.


Ahhh, Gotcha...

Didn't see that difference on the Euro Cluster pin out... I'll check again! Thanks for the info. I re-read what I said, didn't mean to sound like an ASS! (That's what I get for typing on my phone in short hand)

I do not see it being totally linear... It moves to the "middle" a bit more like a chevy gauge which shows actual temp, not like an indicator light like my F150. My car doesn't run hot so far so I do not know about above "middle" I'll pay close attention when I drive the car again.

As mentioned earlier, There is a down side to these BMW temp gauges. I spent a bit of time researching this and here is what I found.
BMW incorporated some form of buffer within the instrument cluster itself that holds the temp needle straight up, middle of the gauge when the engine is between 140-230ish degrees F. If the coolant temp breaches 230-ish then the gauge will swing from the middle up to HOT, not an incremental climb as one would expect or hope for as the engine gets warmer. The sender itself is analog like any other sender for a temp gauge, this buffering is done in the instrument cluster. Some feel the Euro cluster has less of a buffer but I was not able to find any evidence to support or deny that claim. There is a bit of speculation as to why BMW did this, turning a perfectly useful analog gauge into useless cold hot dial, beneficial no one. (theories such a people are getting so stupid that when they wee gauge move from center they panic and take their car to the dealer so this prevents unnecessary warranty claims, etc). Regardless, I see no point in trying to figure out why BMW did this, it is what it is, any discussion should really be centered around a possible solution to obtain a true analog temp gauge. Some have talked about trying to remove the buffer in the instrument itself, others have successfully replaced the internal guts of the temp gauge with VDO guts, stock needle and now have a gauge that indicates temperature on an analog scale. If someone finds a way to eliminate the buffer itself or other way so to get around this, please share, for now, here is what I found;

The issue, for those interested in reading;






In reference to someone wanting clifnotes:

It's pretty much self explanatory in the [url="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1719007"]Engine Swap FAQs[/url] already present and thoroughly covered in the different sections that Clay has outlines under the LSx swaps "Helpful Links".


  • Engine/Trans/Wiring/FEADS/Fbody Oil Pan
  • Mounts - go hand in hand with headers.
  • Headers - Again goes with the mounts, cannot use one set of headers with another's kit.
  • Relocate ABS - depends on your kit - some require it like mine others don't need it but all would benefit from it - heat is the enemy of any brake system.
  • Exhaust
  • Driveshaft - Braap runs a two piece but most run a one piece.
  • Steeringshaft - Depends on swap kit or DIY - Vorshlag and Samburg need a different shaft. JTR uses the original shaft from what I remember. I LIKE the new steering shaft and will use one on my e30 when the suspension rebuild starts. IMHO it is mandatory. Bimerok has his version for a bit less then the others available.
  • Cutting/Massaging: The only cutting that MUST be done is for the shifter. Otherwise you'll see what needs to be massaged once the trans is in... And that is only if you use certain parts, others will not need the mod.
  • A lot of this is subjective to what you use and what you feel is adequate.


That's where I am now!!!
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1995 Leopard

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby JFM325is » Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:17 pm

Wow this is great!!! way to go man I am very very impressed with the build and dedication. Thanks for posting it up. I had a very enjoyable read!
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1994 Fuga

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby Pzary3233 » Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:35 am

Ok so I have been MIA for the last week or so. a LOT has happened in that short time.

Friend's LS1 powered S13 240sx burned to the ground, we stripped it and were shooting to get it rolling by the end of the weekend... There was a drift event put on by Traction Optional http://www.tractionoptional.com and was held at Memphis International Raceway. First drift event, but it was great track time.

* The car needs power steering, I've been against it from the get go for some reason. Finally got some sense knocked into my shoulder. Powersteering will be on this weekend. Just need to source a BMW high pressure line and I'll be good to go.

* I need to get more seat time! But the car is FASTER and handles BETTER then my WRX ever dreamed... and this is stock M3 suspension and worn out bushings.

* Bent the stock rear lower control arms on my 5th run because I decided to have some fun and had a little off road excursion. I have SPC adjustable lover control arms sitting in my shell. Going to pull the subframe to make sure it is straight.

* Engine, Trans, and Cooling were PERFECT! Didn't miss a beat, plenty of power on tap and oh so smooth. Driving the car on the street is one thing, but FINALLY able to get some track time in made be absolutely love the car even more.

*I think I could benefit from a 3.90 rear gear as I felt like I was between gears way too often.

*Suspension is getting an overhaul and the car is going into Racecar/Street car mode ASAP. Not ready for a full cage but it needs at least a roll bar, suspension, and some other bits. It's been a long while since I've had track time and I've been bitten by the bug again.


Pre Broken... Excuse the lack of moldings... just finished some buffing and didn't have new clips. :-(


While the car was down for the count... I still had my e30! A friend and I bought this a few months ago after it was firebombed and the front end burnt up for a song. 2.7 SETA with I head, Ground Control Track/School, and some junk 15" wheels and tires. Needless to say we had some fun with it till my friend put it into the wall on his last run. Cheap good fun!




For some reason that's all I got... Anything off course was muddy and grassy.

Josh after wrecking our car:

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1995 Leopard

Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby samiam3356 » Tue Jul 03, 2012 6:17 pm

Nice build...poor e30...looks like he put it in the lake not the wall! lol

Looking forward to seeing this complete.
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Re: Just your average 95 M3 build...

Postby tlh2011 » Tue May 16, 2017 7:01 pm

hi @pzary, how are your project? Where do you find the m3 euro diagram? Would he have the rest of him?
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